All have seemed to work okay but this one worries me since it has already failed. In the past I have used the Brownells AccraGlas, 24 hour epoxy, super glue, Gorilla Glue and Titebond. So I have carefully picked away all the old glue, drilled both sides for invisible cross pins (hardwood dowels) and am ready to glue and clamp. I had the gun originally to fix an intermittent firing issue but when test firing that repair, the forend came apart after the 8th shot. Experiment on a “practice” piece, first.Īnd good luck finding a good stash of that threaded brass wire.I am in the process of repairing the forend of an o/u shotgun that had split down the middle and then "repaired" by the owner. You don’t have to wind it too tightly as each layer will add compression to the one before. If you are holding things together while the glue sets, use long, narrow strips of inner-tube rubber. If it will hold the wings on, it will hold a split fore-end. Better still is the “aviation-grade” wood glue used by folks who build their own aeroplanes. This is also an “outside job.Īs for glues: traditional “slow” Araldite works. One way to get rid of a lot of the oil is to wash it out with something like “Carby cleaner” available from your local “auto supplies” shop. If your fore-end is split like this, and has been for a while, one of the issues will be ensuring the cracks are clear of oil and detritus before attempting to glue it all back together. The advent / discovery of the spring washer solved the problem in the No. The square end of a LE / SMLE stock bolt was meant to be “constrained” by the square hole in that tie-plate. 1 for-ends get mangled like that is “enthusiasts” trying to wind out the stock bolt before removing the fore-end. “Wonky” draws are a problem, but the biggest reason No. 2mm shorter than the wood so it holds firm, but does not crush. The main screw bush needs to be floating and able to be adjusted if needed. If you screw the rod in just short of the other side you will have only one side to trim once all is set.Īll of this work is for nothing if you don’t fix the draws as well. This wire threads into both sides, so it won’t pull them together, but will hold them into the position you have clamped. Drill through from one side to the other and put a length of the threadwire in the drill, slowly and steadily spin it in.
Acraglas stock crack repair crack#
Repair: You can open the crack up enough to get the glue of your choice in there. On the right no blocks fitted, and indents starting to show where fore-end becoming loose. Centre is the recoil block broken out with the wood from behind that supports them gone. Left to Right : a Lithgow fore-end with its copper recoil blocks in position on the left. Once the fore-end moves around, the main screw bush acts like a wedge and breaks the fore-end.
Tightening the main screw does not grip the fore-end to the receiver, rather the bush is there to stop the screw and trigger-guard from crushing the fore-end and messing up the trigger to sear contact, resulting in losing the second pressure on the two stage trigger. Once the draws are stuffed, the next thing to absorb recoil is the front trigger-guard bush. Thanks to Brad Hedges here is instruction to causation and repair of cracks in fore-end woodwork.Ĭause: The crack was caused by the draws at the rear of the fore-end compressing or failing, allowing the fore-end to move forwards and backwards under recoil.
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